Modern radon mitigation systems are designed to be quiet, ensuring minimal noise disturbance in your home.
Locating the fan outside is often the easiest and least expensive option, but it can also be located in an attic space and, sometimes, in a garage.
It must be outside the building envelope, and it can not be below any living space.
Every home can be mitigated. It is not always a straightforward process, and that is why we offer free estimates. The system is designed specifically for your home to achieve the greatest reduction of radon.
Every home, regardless of its foundation type, has the potential for elevated radon levels. The only way to know the radon level in a particular home is to test. In homes with multiple foundation types, you may need to do multiple tests. For example, in a split-level home with a basement next to a crawlspace, you should test in the basement and in the level above the crawlspace.
Absolutely! We have found homes with radon in water at levels of up to150,000 pCi/L.
Testing for radon in water is different from a normal water quality test. This is a service we offer, but you can also do it yourself through the UGA Extension offices.
Unfortunately, the only real sign of radon exposure is lung cancer. To avoid that, you should test your home for radon.
Radon comes from uranium, but it is more directly produced by radium in the soil. Radon is the only element in the uranium decay series in the gas phase. It is inert, so it will not react with or stick to anything. It has a half-life of 3.8 days, which gives it time to be sucked into your home. After that, it decays into polonium. Polonium causes lung cancer when it decays in your lungs. Polonium is not inert and sticks to airborne particles that you may inhale or directly to your lung tissue.
The electric cost to run fan 24/7 is about the same as running a 60 W light bulb. Radon fans typically run between 42-85 watts. Operating costs can be calculated by multiplying the device's wattage by the hours used per day, dividing by 1000, and multiplying by the kWh (per kilowatt hour) rate on the electric bill.